The Hidden Gems of Goa

History of Goa:

The interiors of this tiny state of Goa have immense cultural and heritage treasure troves. These sites interest archaeologists, anthropologists and historians alike. The talukas of Salcette, Tiswadi and Bardez are called as the 'Old Conquests' of the Portuguese colonial rule. The Sahyadhri Khand refers Goa as 'Gomantak'.

The Hidden Gems of Goa

This verdant 'Parshuram Bhumi' (Parshuram's land), even attracted divine powers and gratified them to reside here. When the gods themselves were mesmerized by the beauty of Goa, one cannot expect the humans to turn a blind eye towards this 'Bhumi'. Many dynasties and rulers in the historic period focused their attention over Goa. They held Goa under their hegemonistic control probably because of long Goa's coastline and the navigable rivers, which facilitated trade and commerce.

However, Goa is proud to have records of Konkan Maury kings like Chandravarman, Anirjitvarman who ruled over Goa during the 6th- 7th century. Nevertheless, the first king to rule Goa was King Devraj. His records mention that he ruled from 'Chandraur'. Chandraur appears to be later renamed as Shivapur by the Konkan Maury king Chandravarman. Chandraur was the first capital city of Goa. Further, it was renamed to Chandramandal, Chandrapur, or Chandravaadi. Chroniclers like Ibn Batuta and Ferishta have referred Chandrapur as 'Sindabaur'. Later the Portuguese corrupted it to Chandor. Locally, this ancient Chandrapur is still called as "Chaandraa".

The Kadamb dynasty ruled the longest in Goa. They fortified the city with strong fortification of mud and stones. The River Kushavati on which Chandrapur is situated played an important role in trade and warfare. The Goa Kadambs developed the state of art of building a strong and a powerful navy to defend Goa's ports. Although, the Kadamb king Virvarmdev moved his capital from Chandrapur to Gopakpattan in the 11th century, Chandrapur's fame was spread as far as South India, East Africa and Arab countries.

The city was attacked by the Tuglaqs and the Bahamanis after the downfall of the Kadambs. Their attacks ruined the city completely. Sadly, very few vestiges of this ancient city remain today. During my explorations of ancient heritage of Chandor, I was able to locate an ancient fort based on the clues given by Fr. Henry Heras in his articles. I was thrilled to se that the ancient fortification dating to 11th century still exists in the 21st century. The area around this fortification is called as Kott today. Kott means a fort in Kannada. It is the only ancient existing fort in Goa. The fortification is clearly visible from Google Earth.

The citadel had a gateway near the Sao Tiago Chapel and therefore the area beyond the chapel is called as "Koudi" to mean a gateway in Kannada. Koudi possibly has been derived from the Kannada word "Kavad" which means a door. Locals mention a moat existing along the periphery of the wall. Similar type of fortification with a moat is seen in Banvaasi too. Banvaasi was also the capital of the Kadambs. It can be inferred that the Kadambs were experts in constructing mud and stone citadels. Many parts of this ancient fort walls have collapsed. Due to thick vegetation growing, the tree roots have penetrated the wall.

Architecture of Goa:

The Hidden Gems of GoaGoa saw rule of many dynasties and rulers. Over the years these dynasties brought in their own culture in this soil. The architectural styles blended with the aboriginal styles prevalent in Goa. The architectural styles seen in Goa today is an unique fusion of Indian and European art. As Indian artists were employed to build the houses in western style the artists and masons tried to incorporate the Indian art into these houses which their hands were used to. The houses of the new conquest differ from the houses of the old conquest. Though the catholic and Hindu houses differed in many ways with regards to the utilitarian space there were some elements which were commonly seen in both the houses.

Climatic conditions also prevented creating exact copies or replicas of Latin architecture. To elucidate the seating arrangement outside every traditional Goan house is an influence of Indian art. They are traditionally called 'balcao', 'Sopo' or 'Teno'. The word balcao is a word of the Portuguese vocabulary. However such seating were common in the 11th and 12th century temples built by the Goa Kadambs. Another Indian feature which was incorporated in Indo-Portuguese houses is the Raaj- Aangan. It was an open courtyard in between the house. The literal meaning of Raaj- Aangan is a king-size courtyard. The Hindu houses have a tulsi plant in the centre of this courtyard which was absent in the catholic houses.

There are many houses in Goa which are worth seeing and are called as palaces of Goa by many historians, architects and researchers. In the Tiswadi taluka we have the house of Mhamai Kamats and the Ghanekars in Panaji which are a unique fusion of Indian and European architecture. The Salcette and the bardez atula also boasts about grand palatial mansions. The Proenca house of Calangute in bardez taluka is also another example of such architecture. The house has the old Hindu part and the new part which was built later during the Portuguese period says Mr Joaquim Proenca, the owner as he points out to the windows in the ground floor of the house. The Salcette taluka also boasts about heritage houses. The areas near the Holy Spirit Church in Madgao, villages of Benaulim, Varca, Orlim has beautiful houses which mesmerizes the visitors. However there are few houses in Goa which are open to the public to see. Two such houses are located in the village of Chandor. The house of Menezes Braganza near the Chandor church is beautiful mansion having a huge ball room, a library, a dinning and exquisitely carved imported furniture.

The heritage house of Sara Fernandes in Kott area of Chandor is also a must-see house for every visitor. The ground floor of the house is a small museum with artifacts of historic importance. Inscription of Kadamb era, vestiges of temples, the Goan 'Maachil' (palanquin) are some of the prized possessions of the museum. The son of the house Mr. Ranjiv Fernandes narrates the family history of Fernandes as he takes you around his house. Mr. Ranjiv explains how the house looked like before the family became Christians. The Hindu styled house still exists says Ranjiv as he points out to the old foundation and Hindu utensils displayed. The walls have gun holes piercing through thick walls and aiming the front door of the house. Old swords and secret passages are still conserved by the family, which is a testimony to the glorious past.

The top floor of the house has mesmerizing ballroom adorned by an array of imported chandeliers. One can also see the ancient Goan instruments like the 'Ghumat' and 'Mhaadhale'. Piano and violin of the Portuguese era is also displayed here. One cannot miss the antique "Chest of Drawers" which contains a maze of drawers which was once used to store gems and jewels in the olden days, in the absences of metal safes.

Culture & Heitage:

Goa's culture is too a very good amalgamation of eastern and western culture. Festivals like the Ganesh Chaturthi, Diwali, Navratri, Dussera, Christmas are an inseperable part of Goa. The 'Fest' in Goan churches attracts not only the Christians but also the hindus and the muslims. The temples and the Jatras here are attended by many Hindu and Christian devotees. Church feasts like the 'Tavshaachem Fest' of Santana, 'Konsachem Fest' of Raia, the Feast of Three Kings in Cansaulim have beautiful legends and traditions assocaiated with them. In the Church of St Anne, in Santana in Talualim it is tradition to offer cucumbers, spoons and Urid to St. Anna. The feast not only draws Christians but also draws many Hindu devotees. On the Feast day at St, Jerome's Church in Mapusa the devotees offer oil to the statue of Milagres. Milagres Saaibinn as she is addressed by all is believed to be one of the seven Hindu Sister-Goddesses who came down from the ghats and settled in various places in Goa. The churches of Old Goa have their own mystical charm. They are notified as World Heritage Sites

Goan temples are a unique fusion of Muslim, Hindu, Buddhist and European architecture. The shikhar of the Goan temples is not a conical tower like seen in other temples of India but is an octagonal tower crowned by a dome. In some temples these domes are of different styles.

There are myriad deities worshipped in Goa. Perhaps this is the reason why people have always called this land 'Dev Bhumi' or 'Punya Bhumi' which means 'God's Land' or the 'Holy Land'. 'Shantadurga', a form of the fierce Durga who killed the Demon Mahishaasur resided in Goa and became the goddess of peace, tranquility. The fierce Durga chose her Goa as her abode became 'Shaant' which means serene, cool. The famous temple of Shri Shantadurga lies in the village of Kavle in the Ponda taluka. The temple is like a palatial mansion and is was built under the Patronage of Shahu Maharaj the grandson of the Great Shivaji.

Goa is perhaps the only state in Goa where Devki is worshipped along with her baby Shri Krishna. Devki is the mother or Shri Krishna. In other places Shri Krishna is worshipped individually and not with his mother. The female form who killed two fierce demons Chandd and Mundd is also worshipped ardently here. The deity Shri Chamundeshwari is worshipped in a grand temple at Vargao in Bicholim taluka. To answer a devotee's prayer Goddess Kamakhy came all the way from Assam and today resides in a magnificent temple at Shiroda in the Ponda taluka. She is known by the name of Shri Kamakshi today.

Shiva, a part of the Hindu Trinity also chose Goa has his heavenly abode. He is worshipped in many forms like Shri Saptkoteshwar, Shri Naagesh, Shri Mangesh, Shri Ramnath. The temple of Shri Naagesh, Shri Ramnath and Shri Mangesh are located in Ponda, while that of Shri Saptkoteshwar is in Narve of Bicholim. An example of Kadamb dynasty's architectural grandeur survives at Tambdi Surla in the Sanguem taluka in the form a temple built from schist stone.